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New York is the greatest restaurant city the world has ever seen.
In Appetite City, the former New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes leads us on a grand historical tour of New York's dining culture. Beginning with the era when simple chophouses and oyster bars dominated the culinary scene, he charts the city's transformation into the world restaurant capital it is today. Appetite City takes us on a unique and delectable journey, from the days when oysters and turtle were the most popular ingredients in New York cuisine, through the era of the fifty-cent French and Italian table d'hôtes beloved of American "Bohemians," to the birth of Times Square―where food and entertainment formed a partnership that has survived to this day.
Enhancing his tale with more than one hundred photographs, rare menus, menu cards, and other curios and illustrations (many never before seen), Grimes vividly describes the dining styles, dishes, and restaurants succeeding one another in an unfolding historical panorama: the deluxe ice cream parlors of the 1850s, the boisterous beef-and-beans joints along Newspaper Row in the 1890s, the assembly-line experiment of the Automat, the daring international restaurants of the 1939 World's Fair, and the surging multicultural city of today. By encompassing renowned establishments such as Delmonico's and Le Pavillon as well as the Bowery restaurants where a meal cost a penny, he reveals the ways in which the restaurant scene mirrored the larger forces shaping New York, giving us a deliciously original account of the history of America's greatest city.
Rich with incident, anecdote, and unforgettable personalities, Appetite City offers the dedicated food lover or the casual diner an irresistible menu of the city's most savory moments.
- Sales Rank: #1046173 in Books
- Published on: 2010-09-28
- Released on: 2010-09-28
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.25" h x .80" w x 7.50" l, 1.48 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 384 pages
From Publishers Weekly
Paris has better French restaurants, Madrid has better Spanish restaurants, and Tokyo has better Japanese restaurants, Grimes concedes, but no city... offers as many national cooking styles, at all price ranges, as New York does. It wasn't always this way. As Grimes points out, it wasn't until the early 19th century that Manhattan and Brooklyn's culinary offerings extended beyond boardinghouse and tavern. His lively, profusely illustrated history veers in one fascinating direction after another, from the proliferation of oyster houses in the 1800s to the original recipe for chop suey. Grimes hits all the obvious high points—Delmonico's, the Automat, Le Pavillion, etc.—but also puts a spotlight on forgotten venues like Forum of the Twelve Caesars, an outsized theme restaurant from the same company that owned the Four Seasons. He gets personal in the final chapter, describing the scene of the late 1990s and early 2000s from his front-line perspective as the restaurant critic for the New York Times. (He has since moved on to the book review desk.) All the material is so fascinating that you'll wish every chapter was at least twice as long, but it's hard to imagine a more entertaining introduction to the subject. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
“The latest book [from William Grimes] is a chronicle of New York's transformation from a Dutch village at the edge of the wilderness to what he sees as the most diverse restaurant city in the world . . . As for today's ‘era of the entrepreneurial superchefs,' this vivid and vastly entertaining history positions it as the latest but hardly the final chapter in the culinary saga of the city with the bottomless appetite.” ―Dawn Drzal, The New York Times
“If H. G. Wells had decided to send his Time Traveler to report on the early restaurants of New York, I doubt he could have provided us a much better description of the city's rich culinary history than the one William Grimes has just written . . . Join the author on his time-traveling journey through New York's rise as an appetite city, and you will be richer for the experience.” ―Julie Gunlock, National Review
“[New York] is not the most important restaurant city in the world, one could argue, but that's not the right argument, Grimes suggests. He walks us from restaurant-free streets of the early 1900s to open kitchens of 2004, and through a brisk, fun study of how a culinary afterthought became the most complex and irritating restaurant city on the planet.” ―Christopher Borrelli, Chicago Tribune
“In his fascinating Appetite City, William Grimes shows us how New York became, arguably, the best food city in the world. This is a wonderful book!” ―Jacques Pépin, author of The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen
“Appetite City, as all books on New York should be, is rich in social conflict and fun. The paradox makes for great food history.” ―Mark Kurlansky, author of The Big Oyster and The Food of a Younger Land
“Elegantly written and meticulously researched, Appetite City is a must-read for anyone who thinks they already know everything there is to know about the New York restaurant world.” ―Tom Colicchio, chef/owner, Craft Restaurants
“William Grimes is a certified expert on New York's culinary world. I can't think of another person who could have achieved what he has in this engrossing and enlightening book.” ―Bobby Flay, executive chef, Mesa Grill
“William Grimes has written a masterful and engrossing culinary history of New York. It's a veritable feast of anecdotes that will satiate foodies for years to come.” ―Drew Nieporent, restaurateur (Corton, Tribeca Grill, Nobu, and Centrico)
“New York's role as a fancy food capital began in the early 1800s as a pastry shop near the foot of Manhattan, run by two brothers--Giovanni and Pietro Delmonico from Ticino, the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland . . . Grimes' culinary history intensively covers eating and eateries in the most recent half of the city's 400-year existence.” ―Carl Hartman, Associated Press
“Former New York Times restaurant critic (1999-2003) Grimes chronicles New York City's colorful culinary history from the early 1800s to the present ... Footnotes underscore the thorough research completed for this well-written book. VERDICT: New Yorkers, readers who enjoyed Mark Kurlanksy's The Big Oyster, and those interested in food, cooking, and restaurants will enjoy this fascinating history.” ―Christine Bulson, Library Journal
“All the material is so fascinating that you'll wish every chapter was at least twice as long, but it's hard to imagine a more entertaining introduction to the subject.” ―Publishers Weekly
“Appetite City is a rollicking tale of big spenders, outsized appetites, and the way high rollers in New York made spectacles of themselves. Telling a story of celebrity restaurateurs, local delicacies, and New York's rapidly changing taste and complex social rituals, Grimes has made an important contribution to the social history of New York.” ―Eric Homberger, author of The Historical Atlas of New York City
About the Author
William Grimes was the restaurant critic for The New York Times from 1999 to 2003. He is the author of Straight Up or On the Rocks (NPP, 2001) and My Fine Feathered Friend (NPP, 2002), and the coauthor of The New York Times Guide to New York City Restaurants 2004.
Most helpful customer reviews
11 of 12 people found the following review helpful.
Engrossing exploration of NYC and its obsession with eating out
By Jean Baptiste
I started this wonderful book not knowing what to expect. In it I found not only meticulous research but also an evocation of a past New York. We travel with the author from the brawling port of early nineteenth century New York where cuisine would hardly be the word to describe eating habits into the increasing sophistication of an International destination. Filled with references to actual dishes and menus , to the individual restauranteurs who risked and won or lost, and the chefs, waiters and busboys who manned the kitchens the book reveals through the lens of food the excitement , brashness, and vigor of New York over almost 200 years. In the final chapter we find a personal memoir of Grimes' tenure as critic at the Times. It reveals the author's serious dedication to establishing an analytical approach to food criticism as well as revealing the truly nutty and competitive world of restaurants in contemporary New York. Grimes has a ability to encapsulate in a single phrase many convergent social, philosophical and historical forces that spread the narrative far beyond food and into how we live our lives. I recommend this book heartily to anyone who likes to eat, dines out, and is interested in New York.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Great for food historians, maybe less for the casual foodie
By 1000Books
If you're looking for a witty guide through the history of food in NYC, that's just not the author's writing personality. Try a different book. That said, books I've seen of that nature often have the air of snobbishness that comes from food the highfalutin foodie types that no one really can stand.
This book is just down to earth history about what happened, why it happened and why it is no longer here. Just a simple but fantastic book about the history of the restaurant business in New York. Aside from making me really hungry, it makes me look at the city's food business in a very different way, i.e. from both historical geography to proximity to business, to necessity all together. To clarify, it's obvious that you're going to find certain restaurants in certain areas. However, is it obvious how that all came to pass and why that specific type of restaurant in that specific manner relative to what exists elsewhere and before it's time? Perhaps to some, but not to me.
The history provided as the reasons for diner and cart culture in NYC was really fantastic. It was an absolute pleasure to learn about how little tea houses came into being. Some of the older names and newer celebrity names are featured throughout making for an interesting tale of the growing landscape of how one "makes it" as a restaurateur.
I particularly loved the description of the German automatic machines. I think I saw a random place on the LES or East Village that still uses this type of vending system. Didn't have time to explore and stop in, but this book has truly inspired me to take a look.
Fascinating for NYer and Non-NYr alike.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Good eating, good reading
By Albert Simons
I thoroughly enjoyed this book. Grimes is an excellent writer who really brings his subject to life. I found myself immersed in the tastes and excitements of New York from the 1800's until the present. In the author's capable hands, food becomes a fascinating prism in which to understand the history of a great city.
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